canoe, part 2: making the plans and the mold

I picked the ranger (basically a prospector) from the canoecraft book and with the help of an imperial ruler that I got because it is too annoying to convert all measurements into the metric system, I started drawing the plans for the molds.

Drawing the plans from the tables in canoecraft

Drawing the plans from the tables in canoecraft

The plans were then transferred to oriented strand boards (OSB) which is pretty cheap and does the job (as we will later see, it doesn’t hold staples very well, which is a big downside). The method I used was to lay the plan out on the board, fix it and then take a ball-pen to push little holes in the wood along the lines of the plan. This worked really well.
Cutting out the mold is a science by itself, there are a lot of different ways to do this. What I did, was to cut out one half of the mold as exact as possible and the other half rough. when one half was perfect I screwed the two molds together (since the canoe has a symetric design every mold except for the centre one exists twice). Then i used a flush trim router bit to copy the perfect side of one mold to the other mold. after this I screwed the mold together turning one of the molds. This way I had one perfect side on each mold that I could use again to make the two remaining rough sides perfect. The process might seem long, but it actually works good and fast and there is no more sanding to be done afterwards (at least in theory).

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